Fish Finder wiring on yak?

[hau]

yep, got so hot before that I had to turn it off. Thats why I started this thread, to make sure that I had it wired up correctly. When it got hot, is was out in the water. I have since, thanks to help from my brothers here, redone the whole wiring using recommended connectors. After rewiring my FF I wanted to turn it on to make sure all was ok before putting it back in the yak. I realize that when I am out on the water that my transducer is OUT of the water when it is mounted inside my yak hull.
Soooo-- is it ok to turn my FF on with the transducer out of the water and on my bench to check out my wiring job?
Thanks to all here who have helped me

[kwtony]

To test for continuity you're fine, otherwise I it's best to keep it shut off when your vessel is out of the water

[hau]

Thanks kwtony

[Linghunt]

The sensor getting that hot is not normal, as a person who designs stuff like that. Power draw for the heat should be minimal.

I would guess you got something broken internally or wired wrong. Looked like you didn't deal with that ground wire. I don't think that is the issue, but realize some designers out there are not so good, might be needed.

e.g. I've seen EE's designs that switch neutrals and commons. They don't understand how dangerous that is. We all know things break in time, if the live (hot) side of the switch works and the neutral or common fails open, the unit turns off, but all of the internal wiring are HOT still. The Tech not paying attention might touch it hot thinking it's off.

Tech shouldn't assume it's dead nor should he assume it was designed right.

"gets off soap box"

Who is manufacturer of your system? got a model number? a pdf of manual would be even better.

not to be picky, but it looked like your wires were like 22 AWG and the crimps for larger wire. Hopefully you folded the wire over in crimp. drop of solder post crimp works too.

Below is an example of a high current relay, Old version worked fine, the new design explodes, with same part number. Someone decided to change the internal circuit board.

Start POST #44 . This is for you electrical guys. I looked like an idiot on this one till I figured it out. Don't assume parts of the shelf are built to spec, even with the same part number.

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...i-42544p5.html

[growingupninja]

Re: waterproof connectors
http://www.adafruit.com/product/743
I like these so far although you need to bust out the soldering iron/butt connectors and heat shrink at the bare minimum. I built an electrical system (fuses, kill switches, deep cycle battery) using them for my roll-up, i will try to post photos sometime. I am experimenting on using them silicone filled at depth, but the have been working okay on the kaboat, which is no small feat since everything is always wet and portions of my wiring run undsr the air floor and are frequently submerged and the whole system is like a dozen conections. It runs gps/fishfinder, lights, bilge, linear actuator for the tiller...

The connectors are rated IP68, which in my spearing experience means 'splash proof'. To get the system fully waterproof took a lot of mil spec heat shrink, aquaseal, stick n seal, 18 gauge weather resistant cable, and of course big waterproof box for battery and fuses. I havent used it yet but also have a little switching power supply embedded in one of my cables with epoxy and 5200 to run the navigation lights which are only 6v.

Edit: one caveat is those connectors are not designed for serious current; the wires on them are only about 20-22 gauge, but none of my devices ever pull more than a few amps at absolute peak.

[Linghunt]

Originally Posted by growingupninja

Re: waterproof connectors
http://www.adafruit.com/product/743

Thanks for the link, Those look pretty good and low cost as well. I think I will but a couple to play with. Looks like they did some good design work on them.

Why such a low cost makes me wonder.

[growingupninja]

Originally Posted by Linghunt

Thanks for the link, Those look pretty good and low cost as well. I think I will but a couple to play with. Looks like they did some good design work on them.

Why such a low cost makes me wonder.

Adafruit's prices are really, really good. I have bought a handful of their components and always been pretty satisfied. I think they are run by people who like to tinker, and i get the sense they just order all kinds of samples from China, play around with the part and if it works they sell it probably at a low margin. They probably make more off their kits.

Let me know how it compares to your other connectors. I will post some photos of my wiring... one caution--i did have one of those that had a bad connection right out of the box, so i test them on my multimeter before commiting time and materials on them; ripped apart my system because i thought i had a short in my own work. Havent had any problems since then and they have seen hard use and i am guessing that was a freak occurence and for $2.50 I am not expexti g mil spec!