First Build-48" Teak/Padauk Rolller

[brtc]

This is my first build. I already have a few questions. I only used about 160g epoxy on the five lams. I felt like I was pretty thorough, but didn't seem like much glue. Also, how long should I wait before unclamping the blank? It's been about 24 hours. Last, I'm thinking about using Neptonics line anchors to hold the bottom wishbone, anybody think that's a bad idea? Thanks!

[Jaws spearguns]

first off the wood looks really nice...and personally i just built 2 50" mahogany rollers and i let them sit clamped for about 2 days just to be sure everything was cured properly. then i let the blanks sit for a month or 2 so they could just cure and balance out any internal stress and warping that was happening...as far as the line anchor on the bottom i just cut slots into the bottom of the blank and they work beautifully however I'm sure the neptonics line anchors would work fine as well as long as you used some good hardware to mount them...best of luck on the rest of your build man

[Wood Guy]

You should be able to take the clamps off in 24 hours, although the epoxy will take a week or so to fully cure. I would hang the blank vertically for about a week or two. If it's going to bend or twist it will do it in a day or two- there's no need to hang it for longer than it takes for the epoxy to fully cure. As for the right amount of epoxy, if you had good squeeze out on all the lams without any dry spots, you used enough.

[Mike N]

The lam layout looks great! I use west systems and un-clamp after 24 hours, no issues. I like to use enough epoxy to have lots squeeze out when I clamp.

I'll defer to others on the anchor.

Put a few dowels in it to guard against de-lam.

MN

[finnfanrm]

I use Neptonics line anchors on my rollers and it works fine

[kwtony]

Itll work fine with one, but better with two. Consider using TWO side by side to space the bands on the bottom apart. Perfectly parallel bands are important. Much like train tracks.

[brtc]

Thanks for the tips everybody. Woodguy, you have been extremely helpful. Mike, those are some incredible blanks! This is how the blank came out, I cut the majority of the epoxy off the top and bottom, and will run it through the planer this weekend. For now I've just gotta find a good place to hang it. More to come next week. Not exactly sure how the pictures got rotated, if anybody can tell me how to correct it, I will. Thanks.

[Cisconius]

Looks good ... I'm interested in seeing how this turns out. Good luck.

[Mike N]

Blank looks clean! That should turn out really nice.

MN

[brtc]

Latest update. I had my blank planed, first rookie mistake. I need a jointer to true the blank out before i run it through the planer. I've got a 1/8'' bow on the top and bottom from user error with the table saw. I found someone about an hour away with a jointer who's going to help me true the blank this weekend and I can start cutting the track.

[Benny]

Maybe some of the more experienced guys can chime in but I'd advise against the jointer. I like to use a jointer to taper a gun after cutting and drilling. The best thing you can do is make a straightening jig and run it back through the saw.

I like to get 2 sides true in the jig, making a true 90 degree. Then run it through the planer.

Lot of good info here:

http://spearboard.com/showthread.php...lding+speargun

And the legend himself:

https://www.youtube.com/user/SpeargunsByGil

[The Bird]

Not a bad idea on the line anchor but you could save 15 bucks by using a longish 1/4in stainless round head screw. Drill a smaller pilot hole shy of finished screw depth. Angle the pilot hole so the protruding screw head tilts back a bit. File off the top of thread under the head about 5/16 and clean up the sharp edges on the head. Once its set with a dab of epoxy in the hole before screwing, to seal the grain at the entrance you can file off the forward facing 2/3 of the flange. Its just ingenuity and detail work with metal and helps build your skills.

[The Bird]

Originally Posted by Benny

Maybe some of the more experienced guys can chime in but I'd advise against the jointer. I like to use a jointer to taper a gun after cutting and drilling. The best thing you can do is make a straightening jig and run it back through the saw.

I like to get 2 sides true in the jig, making a true 90 degree. Then run it through the planer.

Lot of good info here:

http://spearboard.com/showthread.php...lding+speargun

And the legend himself:

https://www.youtube.com/user/SpeargunsByGil

Benny. Hows it going? About jointers and jointing with a jig and table saw.
Old jointers can come out off adjustment and knives dull quickly with teak. And quicker when its laminated. Try hand planing one side with a properoy tuned long bed jointer or jack plane. Checking carefully for square and lengthwise with your long strait edge. I also use 1 ft dead straight 3/4 in sticks across both ends and get down to sight the length for wind. The "winding sticks",one dark and one light should match as you sight from front to back. After youve made a few light passes with the freshly sharpened plane ,mark the entire surface youre planing with a dull pencil from edge to edge with a continuous back and forth scribed line the length of the blank. High and low spots will show after the first pass.Practice on some oak or ash till you get the hang of it. Many planes from Lie Neilson and Verritas are dead on ready to go out of the box ,other than an edge touch up on a waterstone etc. Lots of cheaper old planes like Stanley Bedrocks and Baileys or Sargents. Very capable tools that take up no room,make no noise and dust and are easy to maintain. Most need initial attention with setup and sherpening. Once the one sides done and its opposite side skimmed on the saw,do the top and run it thru the planer or just do the whole damn thing with the hand plane. Theres many how to videos on the tube about this process.

[lidiver]

If you have a router then it is very easy to straighten the blank and be sure it has 90 degrees edges. Get a straight shelf board (use a straight edge to be sure the edge of the shelf board is straight), clamp your blank to it, and run it through the router with a flush bit. Some of the flush bits are 2" long or 21/2" long so you will be able to do all in one pass.

This approach will let you make the profile square (90 degrees angle) too.

To clamp the blank on the shelf board mount on the shelf board a few toggle clamps.

If the blank has a twist (it doesn't sit flat on the shelf board) you can use the same method but it gets to be a pain

[The Bird]

Or with a little ingenuity and two ripped 4 ×3/4×60in pieces of scrap cabinet grade plywood from a cabinet shop screwed face to face matching with a handfull of 1 1/4 in drywall screws,and a 1×3/4×4in hardwood strip for a cleat,run that through your planer with your blank on top. The plywood fixture serves as a carrier board or slave for the piece being planed/jointed. Have a handful of thin wedge shaped shims standing by before feeding. Make sure the cleat is to the rear of the slave to avoid violent kickback. Check before feeding for wobble etc and shim accordingly. Or just hand plane the thing and be done without noise and extra work in 15 minutes.